The Judgement of Paris revisited

During a trip to the UK last week, I had the extraordinary opportunity to taste a bit of wine history – the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay. The fully appreciate why this matters, here is some back story:

The Judgement of Paris occurred May 24, 1976 (and therefore there are a number of celebratory 50th anniversary events this spring, more on that in a bit). On its surface, the Judgement of Paris was a simple blind tasting competition of several French wines – Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon – against their California counterparts. However, in the ‘70s American wine was underrated at best, and completely scoffed at at worst. The Judgement of Paris is what changed all that, when two California wineries – Chateau Montelena and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – beat the French in their respective categories. This event, and a follow-up article in Time Magazine – put California wines on the map, opening the door for many other New World regions. The event was planned by the late great Steven Spurrier and his often overlooked female contemporary Patricia Gallagher.

This is a very brief overview of the event – for more details, I highly recommend The Judgement of Paris by George Taber, the journalist that broke the story back in the ‘70s. Also, here are some insights from Spurrier himself, and his memoir provides lots of information and details.

As both a wine geek and a history nerd, I’ve always loved the story of the Judgement of Paris. Chateau Montelena was a favorite winery of mine to visit when I lived on the west coast (I was a member for many years, actually). Bottles of both winning wines are on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History in Washington DC – and last week, I had the chance to taste one of them.

I’ve had a trip planned to the UK for several months, and it just so happened that the Institute of Masters of Wine held an event while I was in town. Serendipitous, as most of their events are held in London, which usually means I can’t attend. The event was titled “Judgement of Paris anniversary masterclass and tasting in collaboration with Bancroft Wines” and was held at Vintner’s Hall (which I believe is where the MW graduation ceremony takes place, so it was very neat to see that space). It was moderated by Peter Marks MW and Chateau Montelena winemakers Bo Barrett and Matt Crafton were in attendance. The wine list was as follows, with my notes below each (please note, these are the kind of shorthand tasting notes I often take at events, so forgive the truncated sentences and lack of proper grammar):

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2022 

• Pale lemon w/ gold hints 

• Rather pronounced aromatics; some banana tones

• Very clean freshness

• Oak is dominant on the nose — high % new French oak — actually only 10-15% new, just presented higher to me

• Good acid, some waxiness on the palate

• More tart lemon on palate, less tropical/ripe

• No malolactic conversion

• Light skin contact explains some texture

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2013

• Slightly deeper color but still not overtly gold. 

• Development on nose — butterscotch, mushroom, less fruit, savoriness. 

• Softer on palate. Nice complexity. Viscosity in the glass. Apple pear notes. Poured from 3L bottle — slower development. 

• Reductive style

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 1973 

For this wine, they excused groups of attendees to watch Bo Barrett open the bottles – the older bottles are known to brown quickly once exposed to oxygen, and they wanted us to see the color as it was poured. Fun fact: only 12 bottles of the 1973 remain, after we opened two for the event. At a recent auction, bottles of the ‘73 Chardonnay sold for $24K.

• More gold but still quite brilliant in the glass. 

• No fruit on the nose, almost a vegetal hint — less so as it opens. 

• Some caramel nutty notes, vanilla. 

• Sherry like on the palate, acid has dropped. 

• Very different wine making in 1973 but still very reductive. 

  

  The 1973 Chardonnay -- a brilliant gold color in the glass.

Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 

• Deep ruby, magenta rim 

• Very high toned, ripe, stony, deep tears, very light pyrazine. Young, primary. Might miss all as New World in blind tasting because fruit has some restraint, very mineral driven. Oak does not overwhelm. Floral. 

• A little hot on the alcohol. 

• Good acid for freshness. 

• Tannins are grippy but integrated. 

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

• Still pretty ruby. To me this is more classic Napa cab. 

• Not as substantial tearing. 

• More fruit though, all the usual suspects. 

• Tannins are very integrated — almost too soft? I like the nose but feel the wine is lacking on the palate

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

• Starting to get some garnet.

• Less intensity on the nose. As it opens it is really nice. Soft but structure. 

• Very long finish, stony. None of the reds scream of new oak, good integration and elegance.

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1993 

• Definite garnet rim. 

• Some va? Matt Crofton says their Brett smells like shoe polish so maybe that’s it. Yes, get more Brett on the finish. 

• Pruney dried fruit and dried rose petal. 

• Great tannin profile. Really nice body — great balance. 

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1986 

• My birth year! Def shows age, deeper brown core w garnet rim. 

• Nutty leather figs raisin. Porty aromatics. 

• Lots of sediment in the glass. Tannins are teeth coating.

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1977

• This fruit was sourced from Sonoma, versus Calistoga for all the others. 

• Very deep brown. 

• Coffee on the nose. Herbal, slight pyrazine. 

• Great. Very drinkable now. Like this more than 1986. Super complex. My favorite of the reds.

In addition to talking through the wines, the panel discussed the unique and often misunderstood conditions in Calistoga, the general approach to winemaking, plans for the future, and more – it was entertaining and educational, along with delicious. I also happened to sit next to one of the newly minted MWs, and next to a fellow stage 2 student, which was inspiring. 

All nine wines of the flight; the iconic '73 bottle; Bo Barrett opens the '73 Chard.

Currently listening to: small ways to live well podcast from the simple things magazine (so cozy!)

Currently drinking: so much water (not mentioned above was when I got so sick on the trip I thought I was going to end up in the emergency room during my layover in Amsterdam, and I am still trying to fully recover...)